Birding South Africa - November 2001 - DailyLog
First Part of the Daily Log: 11.11.2001 - 20.11.2001
11.11.2001 (Arrival, Cape Town) - 12.11.
(Strandfontein, Bredasdorp, De Mond NR) - 13.11. (DeHoop
Nature Reserve) - 14.11. (De Hoop NR, Swellendam,Nature's
Valley) - 15.11. (Nature's Valley, WildernessRegion) -
16.11. (Wilderness National Park, Oudtshoorn)-
17.11. (Swartberg Pass, Tanqua Karoo, Paarl BirdSanctuary)-
18.11. (Pelagic Seabirding off Simonstown/CapeTown)
- 19.11. (West Coast National Park) - 20.11.2001
(Veldrif, Lambert's Bay)
Second Part of the daily log: Clanwilliam - Kenhardt - Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park - Upington - Springbok - Cape Town 21.11.2001 - 4.12.2001
We had a flight directly from Munich to Cape Town, which arrived shortly after
midnight. Fortunately we were picked up by our friends Suzette and Peter
Silbernagl. After a few hours sleep and breakfast Peter and Suzette showed us around
on the Cape Peninsula. Still in their garden in Newlands we found the first birds
like Olive Thrush, Lesser Doublecollared Sunbird, Cape Whiteeye, Cape Robin etc..
On the short drive to Kirtstenbosch Botanical Garden we had Sacred and Hadeda Ibis.
The Garden itself started with a Rameron Pigeon at the entrance. Cape Sugarbirds,
Cape Francolin, Karoo Prinia, Southern Boubou, Sombre Bulbul etc. followed.
Highlights were 2 Black Saw-Wing Swallows, an African Goshawk and an exclusive
Heading southwards around Muizenberg we had the first Egyptian Geese,
Kelp and Hartlaub's Gull as well as single Southern Right Whales and Cape Fur
Seals more or less close to the shore. At Boulders Beach near Simon's Town
a visit to the Penguin Colony produced of course lots of Jackass Penguins but
also Cape Gannet, Cape Wagtail, Swift and Sandwich Terns, African Black Oystercatcher,
Cape Canary and Orangebreasted Sunbird.
In the Cape of Good Hope Reserve we found the first bigger mammals like
Savanna Baboon, Bontebok and Eland. Interesting birds: all coastal cormorant
species, Redwinged Starlings, Cape Bunting, Bokmakierie, Malachite Sunbird
and the first Ostrichs on the beach.
Heading northwards along the western coast of the peninsula we found some more
Southern Right Whales and at a small pond near Kommetjie the first Blackheaded
Heron and a not very exciting Dabchick. In late afternoon we took the cable car to the top
of the Table Mountain.
In the evening hours we listened to a Knysna Warbler which had his home near
the garden of Suzette and Peter.
Peter Silbernagl took me and his dog very early in the morning(before
6 am) again to Kirstenbosch. Although being a little bit in a hurry we
managed to do a part of the so-called Contour Trail and had nice birds like
a Cinnamon Pigeon, African Paradise Flycatcher and Cape Batis.
After breakfast we said good bye to the Silbernagls and went to the Strandfontein
Sewage Works. Access is free, but you have to ask for permission to drive
around. The area turned out to be very good for waterbirds like several duck
species, Greater Flamingos and also single Eastern White Pelicans. We only
found one Purple Gallinule, but had some waders like Greenshank, Avocets, Blacksmith
On our way eastwards we made a short stopover at Sir Lowry's Pass but
since it was very windy we didn't manage to find one bird. At Caledon we left
the N2 and went on R316 towards Bredasdorp. Along the road we saw our
first Southern Red Bishop, although very common the bright red plumage of these
birds was always impressive. Other birds were some Yellowbilled Kites, Blue
Cranes and an impressive immature Martial Eagle. Besides some Small Grey Mongoose
a Grey Rhebok could also be added to our mammal list.
From Bredasdorp we followed the instructions in Essential Birding to the Damara
Tern Colony in the De Mond Nature Reserve. After leaving the main road
R319 we found some juvenile Spotted Eagle Owls and Barthroated Apalis. When
we went to the beach we didn't bother to search for the colony since we immediately
found two Damara Terns at the water line together with a Sanderling. On the
way back we also found an adult Black Harrier and some Greywing Francolin
along the R319.
In the evening we drove to Buchu Bushcamp near De Hoop NatureReserve.
Since we arrived at about 8 pm in total darkness, it was a kind of night drive
which produced a very nice male Cape Grysbok and a Hare.
In the morning we drove through farmland towards the Potberg area
of De Hoop Nature Reserve. Along this road we found a Karoo Korhaan,
three Stanley's Bustards, Cape Agulhas Longbilled Lark, Southern Thickbilled
Lark, Redcapped Lark, Grassbird, Pintailed Whydah etc.
In the Potberg area we took the Klipspringer Trail. Although
there were only few birds we managed to see some of the Cape Vultures, two
Black Eagles, a Cape Rock Thrush, two Cape Siskins, Familiar Chat and Karoo
Afterwards we entered the main entrance of the De Hoop Nature Reserve.
Bigger mammals like Eland, Mountain Zebra, Bontebok and Baboon are easily
found here, especially the Tier Hoek on the Circular Drive offered a great
view with many mammals. For birds the long lake (Vlei) is of interest. Views
on that lake were possible from Tier Hoek, the campground and Die Mond. Near
Die Mond, which was the only place with more open water, were two Whiskered
Terns and some waders, at the other places were African Spoonbills, Herons
and some Hamerkops. At the coastal area Koppie Allen there were some African
Black Oystercatcher, Turnstones, Grey Plover, Sanderlings and a Pomarine
Skua. For the night we stayed with some Spotted Dikkop on the campground in
the reservat. As darkness fell we left the camp again since we did not know
that it is not allowed to make night drives. Before a ranger stopped us to
tell us not to drive around at night we found a Caracal and a Fierynecked
Some birdwatching around the Campground in De Hoop produced Southern Tchagra,
a flock Wattled Starlings, a Marsh Sandpiper etc.. From De Hoop we took the
road towards Swellendam. Along this road we found our first Secretarybird
right at the beginning, two Karoo Korhaans and lateron a pair Spurwinged
Geese. At the place where there should be a Horus Swift colony according to
Essential Birding, we found some Hyrax (Rock Dassies) and also saw some Swifts
with white rumps which most probably were Horus Swifts.
In Swellendam we took again on the N2 and drove eastwards until we reached
Nature's Valley at the eastern end of the Garden Route. After
setting up our tent at the De Vasselot Campsite we took the walk along the
closeby Groot River. Although it soon started raining we walked till the mouth
of the river. We soon found some beautiful Knysna Louries, a small group of
gregarious Redbilled Woodhoopoes, one Olive Woodpecker, Grey Cuckooshrikes
and Eastern Blackheaded Oriole. The area was also good for Bushbuck, an antelope
which is common along the river.
When we arrived at the beach we saw in the upcoming fog two Water Dikkops and
a Pied Kingfisher.
A morning walk around the campground and along the Groot River presented
us with two Vervet Monkeys, Reed Cormorants, a Dusky Flycatcher, Swee Waxbills,
Terrestrial Bulbuls, Chorister Robins, Blackbacked Puffback and an African
Black Sunbird. A walk along the beach produced a single Whitefronted Plover.
Taking the road R102 with panoramic views on the river delta from the Bloukrans
Pass we came back to the N2 which brought us westwards to the Wilderness
Region. We set up our tent at Ebb and Flow in Wilderness National Park.
Since it was very windy there were only few birds on the vleis (lakes),
an African Fish Eagle soared over Langvlei, Reed Cormorants were common. Along
the roads to the Vleis were Jackal Buzzards, African Marsh Harrier and Steppe
Buzzard. At the closeby "Big Tree", an area with a small forest patch,
we found Forest Buzzard, Yellowthroated Warbler and some of the species which
were also typical for Nature's Valley.
We got up early and did the Halfcollared Kingfisher Trail. This trail
is through dense forests along the river with a loop which offers a panoramic
view on the area. We started with Greater Doublecollared Sunbird at the bridge
where the trail starts. Along the trail were Terrestrial Bulbuls,Greenbacked
Bleating Warblers, Olive Woodpeckers, Knysna Louries etc..
After that we relaxed for a while on the beach, drove another time along the
different vleis with not much new and hired a canoe for about two hours
with which we took the same direction as in the morning on the trail. This
time we had more success with the Halfcollared Kingfisher! The river is very
scenic towards inland. After a while you have to leave the canoe and go on
foot also through a nice forest.
In the afternoon we drove via George to Oudtshoorn with some Pearlbreasted
Swallows along the road. Oudtshoorn is known as Ostrich Capital and so
we bought an empty Ostrich egg (empty: 18 Rand, 2.2 Euro, full: 25 Rand, 3 Euro).
About 20 km past Oudtshoorn we turned right towards a campground where we stayed
for the night. There is also a waterfall signposted which we tried to visit in the evening.
When we arrived it was already closed but along the road we found Rufousvented
Titbabbler and Neddicky as well as some hares and donkeys.
Today we took the Swartberg Pass. Unfortunately it was very windy so
we had only few birds on the way up like a Protea Canary. With the help of
a tape we heard also a Victorins Warbler, but had absolutely no chance to find
the bird in the windshaked vegetation. On the way down towards the Karoo
we were very pleased to find a beautiful male Cape Rockjumper a few kilometers
after the highest point. Other birds were a Booted Eagle and a Black Stork.
Before entering Prince Albert we had a Cape Rock Thrush.
At Prince Albert Road we came on the N1 and after passing Touwsriver we took
the R46 to make the Tanqua Karoo Loop recommended by Essential Birding.
We saw some more Booted Eagles and at a dam also an African Fish Eagle. Since
we drove during midday hours and had only few stops we saw only very few birds
but the landscape is very scenic.At the Bainskloof we saw a Eurasian Hobby.
The next site we visited was the Paarl Bird Sanctuary which is signposted
starting from the R301. The sanctuary is the nicest sewage farm I ever visited!
You have to ask for permission (free) at the entrance and then you can drive
around. There are two or three hides, all worth visiting. Besides Malachite
Kingfisher, Giant Kingfisher, African Black Duck, Pelicans and many shorebirds
we also saw Fulvous Duck and an African Jacana.
After that we drove to Cape Town and spent the night camping at Oatsland near
Simonstown where we met Jochen Dierschke and Silke Schmitt, who also joined
the pelagic the next day.
A pelagic is an absolute must for every birder visiting the cape. They are
run on a regular basis starting from Simonstown, for dates and booking details
We started our pelagic with ZEST II and three experienced guides (Alvin
Cope, Jim Enticott, Ian Sinclair) at 7:00 am. Leaving the harbour we had calm
weather but after passing Cape Point the sea turned rough and it
soon started raining. Nevertheless we soon saw the first albatros,a Shy Albatros.
Some Black-browed Albatros and few Yellow-nosed Albatros followed. The latter
were mostly juveniles, but also at least one adult which was identified by
our guides as being of the Indian Ocean race (or species). Two Manx Shearwaters,
single Greatwinged Petrels, many Sooty Shearwaters and Whitechinned Petrels
followed. After some hours we found a fishing trawler surrounded by many seabirds.
The highlight was surely a Wandering Albatros but I also enjoyed Wilson's Petrel,
Great Shearwaters and Pintado Petrel. Ian Sinclair found a Long-tailed
Skua and a Fleshfooted Shearwater. Cape Gannets were very common and we also
had some Sabine's Gulls, Subantarctic Skuas and ArcticTerns. But when we turned
back towards Simonstown not only those suffering severly from seasickness were
happy to get back on land.
In the late afternoon we met Callan Cohen at Kirstenbosch. After giving us some
advice he showed us a nesting Redbreasted Sparrowhawk. We stayed in a pension in
Cape Town for the night.
We left Cape Town and took the R27 northwards. After a few kilometers there
are some small ponds along the road like the so called Dolphin Beach
Pans with some ducks, a Purple Heron and a Night Heron. On another pond
south of the turn to Melkbosstrand and opposite of a TOTAL petrol station
we found a Whitebacked Duck.
We took the Darling Hills Road about 40 kilometers north of the Dolphin Beach
Pans and did the Darling Farmlands Loop through the area east of the
R27. Although we had not that many birds we enjoyed the countryside and after
about 38 kilometers we came back on the R27.
Shortly afterwards we found the turn left from the R27 towards the West
Coast National Park. This park has some interesting mudflats with very
good hides like the famous Geelbek mudflat bird hide and the Seeberg Hide.
Birds on these mudflats were mostly shorebirds like Little Stint, Curlew
Sandpipers, Knots, Whitefronted and Ringed Plovers, but also Little Tern
and some Gulls at the lagoons.
In the drier areas of the park we found Steenbok and big tortoises but also some
birds like many Stonechats, some Larklike Buntings, a Cape Penduline Tit, a
far away Orangethroated Longclaw, Black Harrier, about threee Southern Black
Korhaan and European Beeeaters.
For the night we stayed at Columbine, a park at the coast southwest of Paternoster.
After checking out the area around our campground at Columbine we found
Cape Bunting, Cape Francolin, three Banded Martins, Karoo Robin, Greybacked
Roadside birding on the way towards Velddrif produced a Secretary Bird, Sicklewinged
Chats, Anteating Chats and Southern Grey Tit. At Velddrif we visited the Cerebos
salt works. When asking for permission to enter they told us not to drive but only
to walk in the area because of the bad road conditions. Unfortunately it soon started
raining. Birds in the area were lots of shorebirds including Whimbrel and
Chestnutbanded Plover as well as Greater Flamingo, Pied Kingfisher and Malachite
After asking for the key at the Hotel Riviera we went into the Riviera Mudflat
hide. The hide gave us views of some Eurasian Curlews and a Caspian Tern. In the far
distance we also discovered a flock of Lesser Flamingos.
The harbour of Velddrif hosted besides numerous Hartlaub's Gulls also some Greyheaded
Gulls. We then took the gravelled road along the coast to Lambert's Bay. Although we
found Cape Longbilled Lark we do NOT recommend the route, since the roads are not that
The harbour in Lambert's Bay is very impressive! After paying a fee we entered
the area. Crested Cormorants nest on the boats and the rocks are full of Cape
Cormorants. There are also Swift and Common Terns as well as nesting Kelp Gulls, but most
impressive is a Cape Gannet colony with several thousand breeding birds. In this reserve
we also saw some Jackass Penguins and Cape Fur Seals. Near the campground in Lambert's Bay
where we stayed for the night is a small lake which had some ducks including a family of
South African Shelduck with three pulli.
Second Part of the daily log: Clanwilliam - Kenhardt - Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park - Upington - Springbok - Cape Town 21.11.2001 - 4.12.2001
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